Besides being one of my favourite cities, Lyon has some of the best vegan food! Unlike Paris, it’s smaller so everything feels more walk-able and there’s a ton of clusters of vegan spots. Low-key you could easily do 3 places in a day. As you know Lyon is the vegan gastronomy capital of France, but it doesn’t mean you’re stuck eating at Bouchons which let’s face it are very dairy and agricultural meat based.
I’ve visited Lyon so many times that this post combines everything I’ve tasted over different times and seasons. It’s basically a mish-mash of everything. Ha! I really had to dig through all my camera photos so enjoy this.
Note: All opinion are my own. None of this is sponsored. I paid for my own meals.
Lyon Vegan Bakery
Zoi Cafe
First up, my holy grail: Zoi cafe. I practically lived here and went back to them so many times. They’re a vegan cafe that offer patisserie, viennoiserie, sandwiches and drinks.
There was a location at Vieux Lyon which was perfect for me as I was staying at Presqu’il so I would walk across the bridge every once in a while and try everything (it’s no longer there but their Croix Rousse shop is still there).
This was an exotic fruit and coconut tartelette. How gorgeous does this look. Taste-wise it was a little more underwhelming then it looked (was expecting a stronger exotic pop), but still good!
If I skipped breakfast I would pop by here and enjoy a croissant with fresh oj. Yum!
How dreamy does this selection of cookies and desserts look.
The other location which is the only remaining one today is in Croix-Rousse. You really need to earn it by climbing uphill. Your girl ain’t about that life.
In my case, I cheated and took public transport. But I did enjoy the nice walk back downstairs. It allowed to explore the traboules.
Introducing the OG of cookies (speculoos and pecans) left and chocolate chip right. Ok, but can I just say the speculoos (lotus) cookie is ONE of the best cookies I’ve had in my life.
It’s big, thick, chewy, when you bite into the center you get a nice spread of lotus spread. Not to mention the delicious pecans, for the crunchy texture. I’ve never tasted fresher pecans in my life! Oof if anyone is ever visiting from Lyon, I ask them to bring me THESE.
Another favourite is the Almond Croissant (left) and cinnamon roll (right). I’ve never had a more delicious almond croissant. It tastes like something from my childhood. A MUST try. They always sell out so you need to show up early. The cinnamon roll is also great!
Next, I tried their baguette sandwich with vegan chicken. It was not bad, but I found it underwhelming flavor- wise and a bit plain for my taste.
Zeitgeist Café
The second vegan bakery I popped by was in Presqúil. I think I arrived in the afternoon so all the seats were taken up by people co-working and hanging out.
Finally I found a spot at a large wooden family’s table. After the ”is this seat taken” introductions haha. This was the selection.
I ordered a frangipane apricot tarte slice because if you didn’t know already I’m obsessed with almonds and frangipane is the OG.
And also a croissant because finding vegan croissants is like like spotting a unicorn in a beret- magical, and absolutely not guaranteed.
The croissant was alright, but the star of the show was the tarte. After full day of walking around, it was so nice re-coop in this nice space. I treated that pie like a personal victory.
Les Belles Ames
A new bakery that popped up on my radar was Les Belles Ames. This one was a bit on the outskirts than the others but super worth it.
The first day I showed up in the afternoon-ish they were sold out of croissants and some vienoisseries, which we really wanted to try.
Armed with patience, we were able to score some at opening time the next morning, just in time for our train ride.
Their drinks menu:
Ok GUYS hands- down one of the best vegan croissants. Biting into it you can sense all the layers of feuilletage. It was soft, flaky, fresh: EVERYTHING you want in a croissant.
The only other vegan croissant that sits in the same ‘best I’ve ever had’ category was, ironically, in Malta- but that’s a story for another time. And just like that, these are now the top two.
For my train journey I saved this sandwich, which is focacia inspired. It was super yummy with the vegetables inside.
Also if you’re after a Praluline the iconic pink brioche Lyon delicacy, but want a vegan version, this is the one.
It’s basically a rich brioche stuffed with crushed pink pralines (sugar‑coated almonds), baked until the sugar melts into little caramelized pockets.
Cigkoftem
After stepping out of one of the thrift and vintage shops around Guillotière, I decided to grab some dinner from Cigkoftem. I had heard a lot about this place and wanted to try it especially since finding out they served vegan food.
Everything was super clean, and nicely laid out. The owner (I think?) was chatting to customers, and offering them to sample different foods, which I was think is great.
I ordered their Çiğ köfte- a spicy bulgur-based mix served with lettuce, lemon, and flatbread.
And İçli köfte- a stuffed bulgur shell, (kind of like a Turkish kibbeh).
This was the first time I tried it so definitely think it’s an acquired taste, if you’re not used to the texture of Çiğ köfte. For the İçli köfte I’m more used to the deep‑fried kibbeh style, so the texture here felt different from what I normally enjoy.
But what my heart truly gravitated towards was this halka tatlısı- a ring-shaped fried syrup dessert, similar to a churro but soaked in syrup. So good, comfroting and oozing in syrup upon every bite.
I can image this to be great for students or anyone who wants an inexpensive snack that will give you a sugar boost for the day. Would definitely come back for this bad boy.
