Lyon Vegan Bakeries, Boulangeries and Cafés
Everyone talks about bouchons and traditional dishes in Lyon, but tucked between them are vegan bakeries. Even in a city like Lyon, where classic food is everywhere, vegan bakeries still manage to find their space. I kept coming across them in different neighborhoods, much to my delight 😊 wohoo! It made me notice how the food scene is shifting and that vegan food in Lyon clearly has its place.
Here’s everything I ate: the vegan pâtisseries I tried, plus the Lyon bakeries and cafés I stopped by. And also my favorite vegan breakfast spots in Lyon.
Want more food recommendations? My vegan supermarket France guide covers my favorite product picks.
Zoi
First up, my holy grail: Zoi. I practically lived here and went back to them so many times. They’re a vegan cafe that offer patisserie, viennoiserie, sandwiches and drinks.
There was a location at Vieux Lyon which was perfect for me as I was staying at Presqu’il so I would walk across the bridge every once in a while and try everything (it’s no longer there but their Croix Rousse location is).
This was intriguing. I’ve never seen this patisserie before so I decided to order it.
It’s called Le tourbillon (a.k.a whirlwind or swirl)- love the name! A sweet shortcrust base filled with frangipane, topped with toasted pecans, soft caramel, a light vanilla mousseline, and a silky cream.
It was delicious and slightly on the richer side. If you’re looking for something unique I def. recommend to order it.
Next up, an exotic fruit and coconut tartelette. How gorgeous does this look. Taste-wise it was a little more underwhelming then it looked (was expecting a stronger exotic pop), but still delicious!
Lyon Vegan Breakfast: If I skipped breakfast I would pop by here and enjoy a croissant with fresh oj. Yum!
How dreamy does this selection of patisseries and sandwiches look.
More goodies 🙂
The other location which is the only remaining one today is in Croix-Rousse. You really need to earn it by climbing uphill. Your girl ain’t about that life.
In my case, I cheated and took public transport. But I did enjoy the nice walk back downstairs. It allowed to explore the traboules.
Introducing the OG of cookies (speculoos and pecans). Ok, but can I just say the speculoos (lotus) cookie is ONE of the best cookies I’ve had in my life.
It’s big, thick, chewy, when you bite into the center you get a nice spread of lotus spread. Not to mention the delicious pecans, for the crunchy texture. I’ve never tasted fresher pecans in my life! Oof if anyone is ever visiting from Lyon, I ask them to bring me THESE.
When they’re out of speculoos pecan cookie I try to console myself with a chocolate chip.
Another favourite is the Almond Croissant. I’ve never had a more delicious almond croissant. It tastes like something from my childhood. A MUST try. They always sell out so you need to show up early.
The cinnamon roll is also great!
Next, I tried their baguette sandwich with vegan chicken. It was not bad, but I found it underwhelming flavor- wise and a bit plain for my taste.
Les Belles Âmes
A new bakery that popped up on my radar was Les Belles Âmes. This one was a bit on the outskirts than the others but super worth it.
The first day I showed up in the afternoon-ish they were sold out of croissants and some vienoiseries, which we really wanted to try.
Armed with patience, we were able to score some at opening time the next morning, just in time for our train ride.
Their drinks menu:
Ok GUYS hands- down one of the best vegan croissants. Biting into it you can sense all the layers of feuilletage. It was soft, flaky, fresh: EVERYTHING you want in a croissant.
The only other vegan croissant that sits in the same ‘best I’ve ever had’ category was, ironically, in Malta- but that’s a story for another time. And just like that, these are now the top two.
For my train journey I saved this sandwich, which is focacia inspired. It was super yummy with the vegetables inside.
Also if you’re after a Praline Brioche the iconic pink brioche Lyon delicacy, but want a vegan version, this is the one.
It’s basically a rich brioche stuffed with crushed pink pralines (sugar‑coated almonds), baked until the sugar melts into little caramelized pockets.
Zeitgeist Café
The second vegan bakery I popped by was in Presqúil. I think I arrived in the afternoon so all the seats were taken up by people co-working and hanging out.
Finally I found a spot at a large wooden family’s table. After the ”is this seat taken” introductions haha. This was the selection.
I ordered a frangipane apricot tarte slice because if you didn’t know already I’m obsessed with almonds and frangipane is the OG.
And also a croissant because finding vegan croissants is like like spotting a unicorn in a beret- magical, and absolutely not guaranteed.
The croissant was alright, but the star of the show was the tarte. After full day of walking around, it was so nice re-coop in this nice space. I treated that pie like a personal victory.
If you’re planning a trip to Lyon, check out my full guide to the vegan food I tried.
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Glad to know there are so many vegan options in Lyon!
Yes, there really are 🙂
I will have to check if any of these also have gluten-free options!
Totally get that. A few places have gluten‑free options, though it varies. Wishing you an amazing trip.